We all were jubilant when we finally got our visa for The Sudan. It was touch and go. The American Embassy would not let us in nor answer the phone, very reassuring. To enter the Sudan one must go on the ferry across lake Nasser. We had cabins on the ferry, don't think it was in any way luxury, but a 1000 times better than steerage. It was a bed with a porthole for Anne, my roommate, better than not. To board was just a crush of humanity, porters with impossible loads on their heads, needing to get their wares on so they could go and get another load, so many people and all their stuff as well, funneled thru one small gang plank. Push and shove was the only way to move forward. The toilets, well, that is another issue all together. I really need to get a full skirt and give up the undies. At least it was a very smooth crossing. 17 hours it took to cross, adding on the pre-departure and post paperwork, it was 24 hours. Much paper work involved, and a thermometer stuck in our ear, could you please clean it between? Our trip notes say we stay in basic rooms, Anne and I just had to laugh, it was like a prison cell with marks on the wall, could not touch anything in the room, it really was funny or horrible, take your pick. We were there for two nights as we had to wait for the truck, Daphne, to arrive on a separate barge.
Finally we off for the adventure of Sudan. The vote is not until Jan 6th for their decision to be one or two countries. All was calm. The people are the best so far. So respectful, not bothering one all the time and helpful and smiles all the time. For the travelers there are water amphora's all over, by the side of the road, at the gas stations, everywhere. Most were shaped like the ones from ancient Greece being held up by a frame. We were off for nine days of bush camping to cross the desert to Khartoum. We had some amazing camps beside pyramids and between hugh sand dunes. One was buy 6 cement factories all around us in the desert. I got up to watch the sun rise and hit the pyramids of Meroe to turn them a bit golden. We wandered for over an hour in a village looking for a granite quarry with an unfinished Egyptian statue, so many smiles along the way, good being lost sometimes. I found a piece of Funj pottery at Deffufa, I am not declaring that. We stopped at Jebel Barkel, a holy mountain with many temples, pyramids, tombs, hieroglyphics in caves. The donkeys are so small, looks funny to see one coming at a trot with a grown man on the back of it, like he is riding a toy. We got our first try at the sand mats, dug the wheels out of the sand, put them under the wheels and pushed. Out we came.
Nubian area is different architecture, doors are painted bright colors, geometric decorations on the walls of the house and the surrounding walls. This is a country of dump truck loads all over. At the side of the roads, probably from construction, just everywhere. There are little melons growing all over this area before Khartoum, maybe the camels eat them, people do not. We got to another archaeological site, were out of water and tired of bush camping. Well, the Gods were good to us, there was a dorm for the site that archaeologists came to stay, it was offered to us, warm shower and a bed, not the tent. Yes, we will take advantage of your hospitality. Wonderful, these little things. One of the gentlemen had scarification on his cheeks, like a T on both sides, it only made him more handsome.
Khartoum. Camped at the Blue Nile Sailing club. First night I was in the parking lot, not the second or third. I got onto the grass area. We were beside the Nile. It is where the white Nile and the blue Nile converge. Could not see the colors, not the right time of the year. Found a spa, yes indeed, we were off for that. I soaked my body in all the warm, hot, bubbly, water that was on offer, and a massage, and the sauna and the steam, and the ham mam and the jacuzzi, I did enjoy it. We also had Christmas dinner at this very fancy hotel. We had secret Santa, crackers from England, a good time was had by all. Oh, and turkey on the buffet. My favorite dish was a croissant pudding. I asked how it was made. Croissants, cream, coconut milk, sugar, cinnamon, probably eggs. Oh, my, I wanted doggy bag for it. Yummy. Daphne is decorated for Christmas as well, tinsel all over it, balls, and little Santa's, reminds me of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert movie. There is mobile all over the desert, where do they get charged? Also went to Midnight Mass, there were only 6 white faces that I could see. Baby Jesus was blond, and very white. Confusing.
On the road again, to Ethiopia, or as the locals pronounce it, Utopia.
