Albania Sept. 2016

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A$1.00 = 1.22 Lek

Movie AND popcorn: 130 Lek

Lavaza coffee package 250gr.: 300lek

Bottle of water: 50-70 Lek

Bottle of beer: 150 Lek

   My perceived history lesson: after they banded together thanks to Skandeberg, they lived easily together-then came communism, whoe to all, except the politburo, that fell, now Albanians are going full tilt to happy, joyous and free.

   Orthodox, Catholic and Bekdashee Muslim exist together. 

  St. Nikolas Orthodox Church -1721, has original frescos and a pulpit shaped like a hot air balloon. Entrancing. 

    City of Sarande, booming housing on the beach, flats for $25,000. 

   Stuffed toy hung at corner of house for the evil spirit to see it first to protect the home. 

   450 small hydropower plants instead of big one. Economical and ecological-they have plenty of water.

    In fact, it's turquoise.

   Permanent circus in Tirana, lots of slapstick tumbling. Too hot for trapeze. 

       Communism oddities: (to us)

    1974- Alkan Nallbani paintings blacklisted and sculptures destroyed.

   Agave plants covering hillsides to prevent paratroopers landing.

  Whole valley hillsides terraced for olive and mandarins after cut off from China.

  700,000 bunkers created.

   Villages isolated that were close to borders fearing invasion.

   Roads curved to prevent planes landing.

   No laughing in public.

   The Supreme Ruler-Enver

      No one could have his name

      Lists of prohibited names, mainly saints

       Soldiers trained to bark like dogs to flush out game and then shot it for him.

        Divers put fish on his hook

        Diabetes made him insane

        Convinced people outsiders would come and invade and bomb

         Gravestones only a slab, now, very fancy.

      Et'em Bay Mosque is an 18th c. That stood unmolested during communist rule and has frescos of trees and waterfalls. It's so sweet. 

   Favorite dish: tavë Kosi. Lamb in a thick base of rice, yogurt and eggs. 

    A real gem, is Albania. 

          

   

    

  

Armenia Sept. 2016

    First impression from airport: strip clubs, casinos, hotel/sauna-all very flashy.

   $1.00 = 473 Dram

     500 Dr.- Armenian pizza plus pomegranate drink

     500 Dr. - bag chips, cappuccino packet, cream cheese package

     100 Dr. Ride to town in the gitney. 1000 Dr. for same ride in a taxi.

      In the grocery store, a woman shadows me, either so I don't steal or to help me. So, I ask her questions, gives us both a purpose. In my local store, there is a full size Kaliknakof shaped vodka bottle in an olive metal box. Speechless. 

   Soviet era blue polyester track suits are still popular. 

   Men give their seat to women on bus as do women to older women, also squeeze together and hold others packages if there is no seat. 

   Tried to climb a hill to see the oldest churches. Checked the altimeter-+6000 ft. So stopped. 

  Many in this group live in North America, Armenians and Iranians. As always, where's my reciprocity?

   Its Independence Day today, Sept. 21. Parade in TV, military. They have the best precision marching, rifle tossing I have ever seen. 25 years from Communism and doing very well. 

    Whole Mountains of obsidian, and, I'm told, a green one. Have not seen it. Saw iridescent green stones for sale, turned out to be Moonstone. I now have a piece of that. My weakness. Not so good for a perpetual traveler. 

    Folk show was stunning. The choreography was different and a treat. My god, they can jump!

    Buildings are of square blocks of tufa, which has many colors. Yerevan is the pink city.

    A good visit. Treated so kindly.