Saturday, December 17, 2011
Australia 2011
I went sailing for the whole weekend, slept on the boat, enjoyed the quiet of the sea. We sailed from Manly, north of Brisbane to anchor between the mainland and Stradbroke Island. I did ask the skipper, Marc, about the lack of a light on the mast as the other boats had them on. He apparently was conserving power, seems he was having a bit of trouble with it. Funny I should ask, I also asked if boats had headlights. No, was the answer to that. Well, you know that was tempting fate. As I raised my eyes at the bright light coming thru the little window, indeed, someone has a headlight. They are called: police. They rousted him for all the bits one must have to be on the water. Gave him a warning ticket. Am I intuitive or what? Later on I got to sat the words that I have not said since 1985, "good night, Marc". That is when my husband passed on. Gave me a funny feeling.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Poland 2010
The fences in Poland are made out of cement and in lacy designs in about 8 foot sections. At least they will not rot.
Drivers: they should be in the Indy 500, they leave no space in front of the car, pass on very long line of cars ahead of them, so, oncoming cars move onto the shoulder. How about that? At least it is a consistent system.
Most people drink juice instead of water, let us not forget the vodka.
A salad I had at a little picnic with Zaba: tomatoes, oil, sugar, oregano, kifir. It was fantastic.
Lots of storks at weddings, must have something to do with babies.
I have put my bottom on the same spot as the Catholic Pope John Paul II. I was on a ferry boat in the NE, going to glide down and up a river, passing thru some locks in Augustow. I was wondering why the prime seat in front on the left was not being sat in. So, I did. then I saw the framed photo of the pope sitting there, it was a revered place. Not for me, I had a good seat then.
These canals between Russia and Poland was the way to trade to the sea over these land water ways, the Polish locks are red brick and sandstone, the colors of the flag. Clever.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Croatia and Slovenia 2008
Some observations from my experiences in Slovenia and Croatia
I went to an AA convention in both countries and was made so welcome by polite and helpful people.
Slovenia has luscious big beds and Croatia has small ones and not so luscious.
Why are STOP signs in English?
Hvala is: Thank you. I could sell them some vowels fro Hawaii.
Blauplunket radios in all the cars, good sounds.
Fantastic red hair colors on all the ladies, not the men yet, and also some very crazy hair cuts.
To match the red hair - red shoes.
Frizer is the name for the hair salons, not all are frizzed as I thought.
Droga, I thought was for the pharmacy, not, it is for perfume.
Smokers are very polite. I was always asked if I minded.
A showroom with a purple kitchen - YES
Music was from the USA and the 50's and 60's, I sang all the time as I knew the words.
Big Mac was 24.90 tollars, 6.4 tollars to the US dollar.
Late night TV is live sex, at least I could understand that.
MOVING MISHAPS
Went the wrong way on the train, only once.
Missed the train, once, I listened to the wrong person, that was pricey, had to stay in Zagreb and it is expensive.
I felt like I was on a movie set as I watched the train move away as I stood on the platform.
Sat on a tram seat, was warm from the person before me?
No, there is a funnel under the seat to bring up warm air from the engine. It must get really cold there, eh?
Also, the churches all have radiators in each pew.
A bar in the supermarket would have made me happy years ago.
EMT people are on motorcycles, clever.
Croatia has Baroque architecture and also bullet holes. Heavy stuff.
Scariest:
On my way to a massage wearing only the hotel robe, feeling bit randy and am in the elevator,
when an alarm goes off and the door that was on it's way to open slammed shut with the force of a guillotine.
Now I am frozen in my slippers, what to do? I pushed the alarm and found out that it will not stay on.
Must keep pushing it like a door bell, guess it is a way to know you are still alive.
I used up a lot of adrenalin in that elevator and was not so relaxed for the massage.
All in all, I was treated with so much respect and kindness. I now have new friends in this part of the world
I went to an AA convention in both countries and was made so welcome by polite and helpful people.
Slovenia has luscious big beds and Croatia has small ones and not so luscious.
Why are STOP signs in English?
Hvala is: Thank you. I could sell them some vowels fro Hawaii.
Blauplunket radios in all the cars, good sounds.
Fantastic red hair colors on all the ladies, not the men yet, and also some very crazy hair cuts.
To match the red hair - red shoes.
Frizer is the name for the hair salons, not all are frizzed as I thought.
Droga, I thought was for the pharmacy, not, it is for perfume.
Smokers are very polite. I was always asked if I minded.
A showroom with a purple kitchen - YES
Music was from the USA and the 50's and 60's, I sang all the time as I knew the words.
Big Mac was 24.90 tollars, 6.4 tollars to the US dollar.
Late night TV is live sex, at least I could understand that.
MOVING MISHAPS
Went the wrong way on the train, only once.
Missed the train, once, I listened to the wrong person, that was pricey, had to stay in Zagreb and it is expensive.
I felt like I was on a movie set as I watched the train move away as I stood on the platform.
Sat on a tram seat, was warm from the person before me?
No, there is a funnel under the seat to bring up warm air from the engine. It must get really cold there, eh?
Also, the churches all have radiators in each pew.
A bar in the supermarket would have made me happy years ago.
EMT people are on motorcycles, clever.
Croatia has Baroque architecture and also bullet holes. Heavy stuff.
Scariest:
On my way to a massage wearing only the hotel robe, feeling bit randy and am in the elevator,
when an alarm goes off and the door that was on it's way to open slammed shut with the force of a guillotine.
Now I am frozen in my slippers, what to do? I pushed the alarm and found out that it will not stay on.
Must keep pushing it like a door bell, guess it is a way to know you are still alive.
I used up a lot of adrenalin in that elevator and was not so relaxed for the massage.
All in all, I was treated with so much respect and kindness. I now have new friends in this part of the world
North of Ireland 2009
There are large burial mounds in fields, called Fairy Rings, and it is said if one disturb es them to plant for example, your family will have five generations of bad luck. Well, didn't the Kennedy family of US fame, desecrate one mound some time back and look what happened to them.
Clydesdale horses come from No.Ireland
Delorean car from No. Ireland
The port of Belfast is such good land and port, that England will not give that up.
Biggest export was linen, I watched it being made in an open air museum, what a process, I will honor each piece of linen I use from now on. I have a piece of flax, which is the name of the material between carding it and weaving it, now I know why that color hair is called, flaxen hair.
Clydesdale horses come from No.Ireland
Delorean car from No. Ireland
The port of Belfast is such good land and port, that England will not give that up.
Biggest export was linen, I watched it being made in an open air museum, what a process, I will honor each piece of linen I use from now on. I have a piece of flax, which is the name of the material between carding it and weaving it, now I know why that color hair is called, flaxen hair.
Jordan 2009
The sign says, "Iraq 301 KM", well, I think this is a close as I will get. I am in the desert looking for the ruin of Azraq, and it quite a sight, rising from the desert like a 4 star hotel. The next one is the "oldest" fresco's. It is a very small place with scarcely seen fresco's, also in the barren desert. So much desert, and so much fighting over it, not being a desert person, one has to wonder. There are many "police training" camps along the way, that is what I am told they are. Big, gated, lots of barbed wire. A pipeline is being laid alongside the road from Iraq.
TV ad for furniture is heavy, dark, thick fabric and big proportions.
Music: young women in T-tops moving somewhere between belly-dancing and Afro-American, very non Muslim.
At one rest stop the host came out and gave me a very warm handshake stating that he was "made in Jordan=genuine Bedouin". He was so beautiful, I got shy and wanted to mate. Some things never change. Inside the tent were long low benches covered with carpets as well as the floor. On these are special arm rests, shaped kind of like a saddle, padded and easy to lean on for smoking and tea. It works.
Speaking of carpets, wasn't I? On a plane to Hong Kong, my seat mate said he was on his way to the sourcing fair to buy carpets, and he came from Persia. Can't trust anything.
In Aman I saw what is to be the oldest human sculpture, it reputed to be 6000 BC. It is a squarish figure with two heads with distinct faces. Was exciting to see it. It looked in very good shape.
Then I went to the sea. Cities are crowded, crumbling, dirty-enough. Fresh air. My host there wanted show me how much he knew English, he sure could say, fuck, a lot. So, he knew American English. If he only knew.
Now, on to Petra, the reason for coming to the Middle East. I went on a long walk thru the "Sig" ie, slot canyon. Refusing a man with a horse, did the Cougar bit with him, said I would be back, be ready. He was gone then. As I walked through the canyon the walls got so tall and winding, I could not see ahead of me. That only increased the excitement of being in the place of this fantastic carving done by man. On one wall there were carving of a camel train and a trough to carry water, clever. Then, there is was, peering thru the canyon. What a dramatic entrance. Worthy of the scene. It is so tall and glowing with light. In the entrance of the facade, for it is that, was a ceremonial soldier dressed very elegantly as the desert ones do. Tailored olive long dress, bandoleers, headdress, mustache. My goal was to sit and paint this fantastic sight, then, I was lured on by the promise of more facades and a Roman theatre. It does go on and on, who knew. I stopped before the Colonnaded Street and returned to execute my goal. As I trudged back up the dusty, rocky and very hot path to the glorious pink sandstone structure, knowing I wast o have a mint tea and paint. Oops, I have arrived too late and that glowing light had gone. Was so taken by the glory of it, that I did not pay attention that is was a narrow canyon and the light will only last so long. I did draw it and will have it in my memory forever.
60% of people in Jordan are Palestinian refugees. Don't say that on TV. In Aman, the government will paint all the houses in the old city the same yellow and reddish colors. Don't know why. Women in Palestine come to Jordan for the freedom
TV ad for furniture is heavy, dark, thick fabric and big proportions.
Music: young women in T-tops moving somewhere between belly-dancing and Afro-American, very non Muslim.
At one rest stop the host came out and gave me a very warm handshake stating that he was "made in Jordan=genuine Bedouin". He was so beautiful, I got shy and wanted to mate. Some things never change. Inside the tent were long low benches covered with carpets as well as the floor. On these are special arm rests, shaped kind of like a saddle, padded and easy to lean on for smoking and tea. It works.
Speaking of carpets, wasn't I? On a plane to Hong Kong, my seat mate said he was on his way to the sourcing fair to buy carpets, and he came from Persia. Can't trust anything.
In Aman I saw what is to be the oldest human sculpture, it reputed to be 6000 BC. It is a squarish figure with two heads with distinct faces. Was exciting to see it. It looked in very good shape.
Then I went to the sea. Cities are crowded, crumbling, dirty-enough. Fresh air. My host there wanted show me how much he knew English, he sure could say, fuck, a lot. So, he knew American English. If he only knew.
Now, on to Petra, the reason for coming to the Middle East. I went on a long walk thru the "Sig" ie, slot canyon. Refusing a man with a horse, did the Cougar bit with him, said I would be back, be ready. He was gone then. As I walked through the canyon the walls got so tall and winding, I could not see ahead of me. That only increased the excitement of being in the place of this fantastic carving done by man. On one wall there were carving of a camel train and a trough to carry water, clever. Then, there is was, peering thru the canyon. What a dramatic entrance. Worthy of the scene. It is so tall and glowing with light. In the entrance of the facade, for it is that, was a ceremonial soldier dressed very elegantly as the desert ones do. Tailored olive long dress, bandoleers, headdress, mustache. My goal was to sit and paint this fantastic sight, then, I was lured on by the promise of more facades and a Roman theatre. It does go on and on, who knew. I stopped before the Colonnaded Street and returned to execute my goal. As I trudged back up the dusty, rocky and very hot path to the glorious pink sandstone structure, knowing I wast o have a mint tea and paint. Oops, I have arrived too late and that glowing light had gone. Was so taken by the glory of it, that I did not pay attention that is was a narrow canyon and the light will only last so long. I did draw it and will have it in my memory forever.
60% of people in Jordan are Palestinian refugees. Don't say that on TV. In Aman, the government will paint all the houses in the old city the same yellow and reddish colors. Don't know why. Women in Palestine come to Jordan for the freedom
Aosta, Italy 2009
It is my 25th AA anniversary!!
I will do something that gives me a bit of fear, to celebrate that I am alive. What will it be?
The highest gondola ride in Europe, it takes three rides to get to the top. I am at the top of the world! Helbronner. I thought the platform was moving, the attendant told me it was my lack of oxygen that made it seem that way. No wonder, I can see the top of the Alps, I am looking at Mt. Blanc in the eye. Now, my batteries go dead for the camera. They have them here. Now a little bit of snow flakes and mist moves abound the mountain tops. On the second lift, there is an alpine garden to peruse while one gets the strength to go on. What a feat of engineering to take me all the way up these mountains.
Next day bus to Chamonix. I walked around and did not like the feeling of the place or the restaurants, so got some picnic and came to my room. There at the end of the hallway was big window that opened and two easy chairs. Picnic perfect. The view if of a glacier, tonguing its way down the valley. Surrounded by pine forest, now the sun is on the ice, wispy clouds in and out over the tops of the mountains, exposing the blue sky.
I thought I had heard thunder before, but in the valley, Zeus was at his very best. I was sure it was an avalanche, it was so loud and reverberating, what else could it be? A memorable clap for my sobriety.
I will do something that gives me a bit of fear, to celebrate that I am alive. What will it be?
The highest gondola ride in Europe, it takes three rides to get to the top. I am at the top of the world! Helbronner. I thought the platform was moving, the attendant told me it was my lack of oxygen that made it seem that way. No wonder, I can see the top of the Alps, I am looking at Mt. Blanc in the eye. Now, my batteries go dead for the camera. They have them here. Now a little bit of snow flakes and mist moves abound the mountain tops. On the second lift, there is an alpine garden to peruse while one gets the strength to go on. What a feat of engineering to take me all the way up these mountains.
Next day bus to Chamonix. I walked around and did not like the feeling of the place or the restaurants, so got some picnic and came to my room. There at the end of the hallway was big window that opened and two easy chairs. Picnic perfect. The view if of a glacier, tonguing its way down the valley. Surrounded by pine forest, now the sun is on the ice, wispy clouds in and out over the tops of the mountains, exposing the blue sky.
I thought I had heard thunder before, but in the valley, Zeus was at his very best. I was sure it was an avalanche, it was so loud and reverberating, what else could it be? A memorable clap for my sobriety.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Truck life in Africa
Well, if you have not spent four months on a truck with 20 other strangers, you have not lived. We met in Cairo and went over our schedule. When we got to the part of nine days bush camping, Katie, just kept repeating: 9 days no shower! Yup, 9 days. In fact, it was true. I did learn about wet wipes, big packages of them. And, a big plastic cup to have a wash in. One can adapt to most anything.
The truck had a refrigerator, charger for IPod's and such, library, cubby for personal items for the day-kind of like a day pack for trucking, boot bag to hold them for the day so we did not have to wear them all the time. Cooler for soft drinks on the honor system, and of course a bar in another cooler. Glad I was not in charge of that one, I watched and people could not remember that they took all those beers.
We were supposed to move seats so all had the same chance for the favored seats. Seems that the front ones are favored, I did not find them so good. There was a big header between the cab and the seated area which impaired the view. After all, it is the view why I was there. The truck used to be a cement truck and was separate from each other, moved in different directions when bumpy roads came up. We could move into the cab, if one was a bit flexible. Then one could ride 'shotgun', Helena was the name of the truck, she had a right hand drive and we drove on the left in Africa, so, shotgun was very exciting. Got used to it eventually.
Getting up into the truck. Had to heft myself up a high first step, using both hands on handles. I got stronger as we went along. Before getting in, we sprayed our hands with Detol to prevent spreading germs. Somehow, it did not work at the start of the trip. Soon, out of Cairo in the White Desert I got the runs, full on with cramps and an immediate "stop!" to the drivers. This is a rule, when a person needs to stop, they do at the first possible place, fortunately, we were in the desert and could stop anywhere. Was not sick until Nairobi, and that was to be my five days holiday from this holiday. Missed that one.
Camping: my new talent. We camped in desert, the heat and humidity and in the freezing mountains. Having to get out of this tent is a hassle in the night. No en suite going on there. From Nairobi on I had my own tent, lent to me by one of the girls that finished there. What a treat. I was sharing with Annie for the first part, then she lost the plot and I was given a tent by one of the lads and he shared with another. Bless them.
The dancing I have seen thru the whole of Africa. In Bahariya, Egypt we were treated to a young man that could move his bum up and down at will while dancing, the up on his toes, swaying his hips and lowering himself to the floor and up. what control. In Ethiopia it was the ladies moving the shoulders forward and back, fast. Annie I followed some music and there was a pre wedding celebration and we were invited in. Dance we did. Even Annie. In a circle with the elders being the best. Further south the dancing was more like bouncing the huge necklaces up and down. The Masai area was the jumpers. The jump part comes from being able to throw a spear further. Of course.
Dust pan was a cardboard box with a piece of box as the broom.
Many flavors of chips available: chili-lime, chili, cheese, shrimp. The favorite ones were not available in the next country, would have to start again. I must have drunk my life's supply of soft drinks. It was the only thing cold. One day I got a fruity one that turned out to have alcohol in it. I panicked and drank lots of water from the tap. TG that was OK. My companions did not know I was an alcoholic so said, it is only 4%. 4% too much for me. All passed well. Will check everything, it looked so inviting, and was cold.
If you ever wondered why the classic photo of Africa is so colorful, it is the dust. It is everywhere, I wore my scarf over my face like the desert people of all time. It works.
At Christmas the truck was decorated with tinsel and shiny balls, what a sight we were then.
My hands have never been so the dirty, at mealtimes, I looked them and thought, ugh. They had been disinfected, but, still. My penchant for wearing lipstick wearing lipstick went out the window. I could count on one hand the times I wore it, Christmas for sure. I did use two tubes of lip balm. Make up? Not.
Amazing experience, could not have done it on my own.
The truck had a refrigerator, charger for IPod's and such, library, cubby for personal items for the day-kind of like a day pack for trucking, boot bag to hold them for the day so we did not have to wear them all the time. Cooler for soft drinks on the honor system, and of course a bar in another cooler. Glad I was not in charge of that one, I watched and people could not remember that they took all those beers.
We were supposed to move seats so all had the same chance for the favored seats. Seems that the front ones are favored, I did not find them so good. There was a big header between the cab and the seated area which impaired the view. After all, it is the view why I was there. The truck used to be a cement truck and was separate from each other, moved in different directions when bumpy roads came up. We could move into the cab, if one was a bit flexible. Then one could ride 'shotgun', Helena was the name of the truck, she had a right hand drive and we drove on the left in Africa, so, shotgun was very exciting. Got used to it eventually.
Getting up into the truck. Had to heft myself up a high first step, using both hands on handles. I got stronger as we went along. Before getting in, we sprayed our hands with Detol to prevent spreading germs. Somehow, it did not work at the start of the trip. Soon, out of Cairo in the White Desert I got the runs, full on with cramps and an immediate "stop!" to the drivers. This is a rule, when a person needs to stop, they do at the first possible place, fortunately, we were in the desert and could stop anywhere. Was not sick until Nairobi, and that was to be my five days holiday from this holiday. Missed that one.
Camping: my new talent. We camped in desert, the heat and humidity and in the freezing mountains. Having to get out of this tent is a hassle in the night. No en suite going on there. From Nairobi on I had my own tent, lent to me by one of the girls that finished there. What a treat. I was sharing with Annie for the first part, then she lost the plot and I was given a tent by one of the lads and he shared with another. Bless them.
The dancing I have seen thru the whole of Africa. In Bahariya, Egypt we were treated to a young man that could move his bum up and down at will while dancing, the up on his toes, swaying his hips and lowering himself to the floor and up. what control. In Ethiopia it was the ladies moving the shoulders forward and back, fast. Annie I followed some music and there was a pre wedding celebration and we were invited in. Dance we did. Even Annie. In a circle with the elders being the best. Further south the dancing was more like bouncing the huge necklaces up and down. The Masai area was the jumpers. The jump part comes from being able to throw a spear further. Of course.
Dust pan was a cardboard box with a piece of box as the broom.
Many flavors of chips available: chili-lime, chili, cheese, shrimp. The favorite ones were not available in the next country, would have to start again. I must have drunk my life's supply of soft drinks. It was the only thing cold. One day I got a fruity one that turned out to have alcohol in it. I panicked and drank lots of water from the tap. TG that was OK. My companions did not know I was an alcoholic so said, it is only 4%. 4% too much for me. All passed well. Will check everything, it looked so inviting, and was cold.
If you ever wondered why the classic photo of Africa is so colorful, it is the dust. It is everywhere, I wore my scarf over my face like the desert people of all time. It works.
At Christmas the truck was decorated with tinsel and shiny balls, what a sight we were then.
My hands have never been so the dirty, at mealtimes, I looked them and thought, ugh. They had been disinfected, but, still. My penchant for wearing lipstick wearing lipstick went out the window. I could count on one hand the times I wore it, Christmas for sure. I did use two tubes of lip balm. Make up? Not.
Amazing experience, could not have done it on my own.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Namibia
Heading to Grootfontein where we will meet the San Bushmen, been living there for over 20, 000 years, about 2,000 live the traditional way and speak a clicking language. Found out that there are many languages that click in Africa. I first saw it on TV news years ago when I was in So. Africa, fascinating to hear a news caster speak and click at the same time. These people also can store fat in the buttocks for lean times and the body uses it, then the buttocks goes flat. That does not happen in Caucasian bums. Or fronts, if it did, I could go for a while. We went to a village and followed two young men wearing their traditional thong, lovely walk. We were on a bush walk to have them show us what they used from nature. Plants for medicine, soap, bow, arrow, TB, Muscle aches, water catching area in a tree and shelter as well in a hollow tree. Lots of bead work being done, ostrich shell broken then chi sled to be round, then a hole is drilled and there you have a bead. Also pieces of hollow grass, incised, dyed, cured and there is another style of bead.
Next was Etosha Park where there is set up lights and seats at a watering hole for people to view the animals at night when they are out for a drink. Kind of a Zebra disco. This park is a hugh salt pan, maybe be bigger that Bolivia, will check that out. WE saw here, black jackel, big giraffe, wildebeast all at the watering hole. A tree climbing snake-black mamba or cobra, white backed vulture, lapped face vulture-ugly is the word here, dik-dik's, hyena, zebras, hawk, guinea fowl, ostrich, orricks, gazelles, impala, mongoose, corry buster, kudo, springbuck, rhino at 30 yards!, red harte beast. Lots huh. An interesting note, a male Zebra's genitalia does not show unless aroused and the Elephant's has it's own search engine to find the mark, it is very odd to see that going on, it really does wander around. I have seen so much more than the Big 5, glad I had low expectations as they would have been low.
Now we are in the desert again. This one is different again. We camped at Spitzkoppe, the Matterhorn of Southern Africa. Huge granite outcroppings that change color very dramatically with sun rise and sun set. The moon was full to top it off, somehow I lost my serenity. Went to look for it by myself. Would be a benefit if I did that more often. I heard water running all night in my tent, thought I was in a flash flood zone, knew that I could not be as Paul the outdoors man would not have told me it was a good place to put the tent. Heard it all night, like babbling brook. In the morning I found out it was coming from up the mountain falling from a crack and then going underground. Wish I knew that earlier and I could have enjoyed the sound.
We drove to Swakopmund stopping along the way by the sea to see the Cape Seals. Many babies nursing, not seen that before. We were invited by three locals in our lodge compound for a BBQ. They were on a government sponsored fishing/tagging expedition and very excited about it. They cooked us mutton chops, sausage, jerky from Kudo and Springbok. One had a 'farm' that was over 5,000 hectares next to Etosha Park. He was a professional hunter/butcher, commercially. The other two were pharmacy owner and a local beer CEO. In their opinion they live in paradise. Real hunters and fishermen. Went to a movie, popcorn, what a treat.
At sunrise we drove to see it come up from Dune 45, which is 45 k. out of the city. One had to climb it for the best deal. I made it almost, far enough for me. Spectacular, and I got to see the view I was waiting for in Namibia. The lone tree against the white sand floor of the desert and the red sand dune. Yummy
Fish River Canyon is about as big as the Grand Canyon. Hard for the mind to grasp.There are Quiver trees and that is what the local use the bark for, related to Aloe. Elephant trunk trees, yup looks like them . Barren here except by the river where grapes grow, and the bugs are amazing, and so prolific.
Now, the sunset at the canyon was beyond anything I have ever seen. I took a photo, but it does not capture the magnitude. The colors were all around, on fire and then soft. Bigger than anything I can describe at this moment.
Next was Etosha Park where there is set up lights and seats at a watering hole for people to view the animals at night when they are out for a drink. Kind of a Zebra disco. This park is a hugh salt pan, maybe be bigger that Bolivia, will check that out. WE saw here, black jackel, big giraffe, wildebeast all at the watering hole. A tree climbing snake-black mamba or cobra, white backed vulture, lapped face vulture-ugly is the word here, dik-dik's, hyena, zebras, hawk, guinea fowl, ostrich, orricks, gazelles, impala, mongoose, corry buster, kudo, springbuck, rhino at 30 yards!, red harte beast. Lots huh. An interesting note, a male Zebra's genitalia does not show unless aroused and the Elephant's has it's own search engine to find the mark, it is very odd to see that going on, it really does wander around. I have seen so much more than the Big 5, glad I had low expectations as they would have been low.
Now we are in the desert again. This one is different again. We camped at Spitzkoppe, the Matterhorn of Southern Africa. Huge granite outcroppings that change color very dramatically with sun rise and sun set. The moon was full to top it off, somehow I lost my serenity. Went to look for it by myself. Would be a benefit if I did that more often. I heard water running all night in my tent, thought I was in a flash flood zone, knew that I could not be as Paul the outdoors man would not have told me it was a good place to put the tent. Heard it all night, like babbling brook. In the morning I found out it was coming from up the mountain falling from a crack and then going underground. Wish I knew that earlier and I could have enjoyed the sound.
We drove to Swakopmund stopping along the way by the sea to see the Cape Seals. Many babies nursing, not seen that before. We were invited by three locals in our lodge compound for a BBQ. They were on a government sponsored fishing/tagging expedition and very excited about it. They cooked us mutton chops, sausage, jerky from Kudo and Springbok. One had a 'farm' that was over 5,000 hectares next to Etosha Park. He was a professional hunter/butcher, commercially. The other two were pharmacy owner and a local beer CEO. In their opinion they live in paradise. Real hunters and fishermen. Went to a movie, popcorn, what a treat.
At sunrise we drove to see it come up from Dune 45, which is 45 k. out of the city. One had to climb it for the best deal. I made it almost, far enough for me. Spectacular, and I got to see the view I was waiting for in Namibia. The lone tree against the white sand floor of the desert and the red sand dune. Yummy
Fish River Canyon is about as big as the Grand Canyon. Hard for the mind to grasp.There are Quiver trees and that is what the local use the bark for, related to Aloe. Elephant trunk trees, yup looks like them . Barren here except by the river where grapes grow, and the bugs are amazing, and so prolific.
Now, the sunset at the canyon was beyond anything I have ever seen. I took a photo, but it does not capture the magnitude. The colors were all around, on fire and then soft. Bigger than anything I can describe at this moment.
Botswana
More driving and voila, we are at another border into Botswana. We camp in Chobe Park. In the morning there are foot prints of hippos. We were told to stay away from the waters edge because it is full of hippos and they are not so hospitable either. I could hear them grunting all the night and when I had to get up for a bush pee, I was positive there was a very small giraffe in front of the tent. I had been so warned about the animals in the night, take my light with me at all times etc. that I was imagining many things. In the morning, it was tree trunks with a good outline of a general shape of a little giraffe, so I thought. Also wild hogs wandered thru the camp as well. Gotta love camping in Africa.
This part of Africa has a panhandle of Namibia that crosses over the top of Botswana. We must cross over the borders twice as the only road is in Namibia to get to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The delta is formed by the Okavango River from Angola. It flows into a basin at the edge of the Kalahari Desert and fans out into an unspoilt ecosystem. Naturally it is lots of water in the wet season. On to a ferry we go, then stuck in the sand. We got to use the sand mats once again. We were better off than another overland truck we tried to help out. The passenger door had flown open and sprung itself, it was a suicide door. Odd design for this type of vehicle, and it had lost both of the rear tires and wheels. Seems that the lug bolts were not on tight. Our well trained drivers could not help as there was too much sand and the truck was heavy and just continued to sink. This truck had one female leader/driver and 7 young women. They had called for help and did not need to come with us, to the disappointment of our men. Some of what I saw in the delta: little bee eater bird is yellow with a dark mask like the Lone Ranger, Pealse fish owl which was a roan color, tiny water Lillie's the size of my thumbnail, star shaped Lillie's with fringe on the edges, regular water Lillie's-lavender, pink, white, Papyrus grass, buffalo grass. We were paddled around the water, thru the grasses by Rincon, our Mokoro canoe poler. He grew up in the delta and assured me that he knew the way and we would not get lost. The boat are shallow and flat bottomed, I sat in the bottom and was poled forward into the grasses. Not a bad way to spend the day. On to the next country, Namibia.
This part of Africa has a panhandle of Namibia that crosses over the top of Botswana. We must cross over the borders twice as the only road is in Namibia to get to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The delta is formed by the Okavango River from Angola. It flows into a basin at the edge of the Kalahari Desert and fans out into an unspoilt ecosystem. Naturally it is lots of water in the wet season. On to a ferry we go, then stuck in the sand. We got to use the sand mats once again. We were better off than another overland truck we tried to help out. The passenger door had flown open and sprung itself, it was a suicide door. Odd design for this type of vehicle, and it had lost both of the rear tires and wheels. Seems that the lug bolts were not on tight. Our well trained drivers could not help as there was too much sand and the truck was heavy and just continued to sink. This truck had one female leader/driver and 7 young women. They had called for help and did not need to come with us, to the disappointment of our men. Some of what I saw in the delta: little bee eater bird is yellow with a dark mask like the Lone Ranger, Pealse fish owl which was a roan color, tiny water Lillie's the size of my thumbnail, star shaped Lillie's with fringe on the edges, regular water Lillie's-lavender, pink, white, Papyrus grass, buffalo grass. We were paddled around the water, thru the grasses by Rincon, our Mokoro canoe poler. He grew up in the delta and assured me that he knew the way and we would not get lost. The boat are shallow and flat bottomed, I sat in the bottom and was poled forward into the grasses. Not a bad way to spend the day. On to the next country, Namibia.
Zimbabwe Part 2
When in Hwange National Park, our guide was Andy. This man knows all. He took us tracking, now, it is really on. I followed this man, after listening to him all day, I would follow him and feel safe anytime, anywhere. We were to go rhino tracking. These are really big animals and have no sense of humor. There I was following the MAN in his shorts with a big rifle slung over his shoulder thru the bush. If that was not exciting enough, now he is shushing us and motioning us to keep low and quiet. He is sure the White Rhino terrible twins are close. Holy cow, they were, and hugh, and close. I was standing behind a tree with a trunk the size of my wrist, now one would think that was silly, but, I did listen to Andy. He said they cannot see very well and if I did not move, they would not see me at all. By using the little tree for cover, I did not have to crouch, and that is not my favorite position. This was the most exciting part of any game drive I had all thru Africa. Awesome...Oh, they are called white by mistake, it really means wide mouth, in Dutch,but, you know how that goes in translation. They are about the same color as the black ones. I am not sure how close one has to be to tell the width of their mouths, Andy did not have to get very close. Me, the binoculars would do.
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Zimbabwe
Wow, we were not coming to Harare, however one of the passengers grew up in Zimbabwe and was on a memory trip. Off to Harare we went. From years of news I thought it would be a shambles, not so at all. The CBD was an architectural beauty. Soaring buildings and western hotels abounded. There really was not many places to eat and we were a bit earl for lunch, we wandered to the Crowne Plaza and there we enjoyed glorious food like we had not seen for months. Cloth napkins, service, pretty decorations, modern toilets and deserts. Heaven for us starved campers.
Also, it was a day of their protests. All we saw as we were leaving the city were lots of buses crammed with people coming in for the demonstration. We had been missing all the kerfuffle all thru Africa. Whew!
On to Antelope Park. This is a place that breeds lions so humans can walk with them, see them charge at the fence in front of your face to get their food. Elephants to ride on, etc. A really big kind of interactive zoo. Not supported by Intrepid, we went anyway. I did not participate with the animals, did laundry instead. The facility is well equipped, lots of lawn to camp on. The best part were the walkway lights cut out of sheet metal to resemble Guinea Fowl. Liked them lots. At night, this was Africa, lions roaring all night. Whooo.
Zimbabwe is named after a stone structure that has not mortar to keep it together. One of the wonders of what man can do. I have built many walls, and am in awe of those that can do that. It is basically in a spiral shape, the purpose I was told was for pre-marital teachings for women. When I asked what the men got for this insight, the gentleman that was our leader said, 'we don't need teachings'. WHAT? It is the same all over the world. There is also a royal palace and is a Unesco site from the 11th century.
We next go to Hwange National Park. This was fantastic. Our guide was Andy, who knew everything and with fervor and joy.
Animals we saw:
Giant Eagle Owl-wings make no sound
Verox eagle-black 6 foot wingspan
Cliff springer
Black baboons
Giraffe- males have squared neck and females are more round
Hippos swish their tail to spread their scat in the bush and also in the water
Elephants roll their food in the mouth, rhino's break the brush at a 45 degree angle, that is how you can tell who's scat it is.
Plants communicate with each other when leaves are eaten to the next plant downwind. It will excrete tannins to make it un-appetizing. Spots on Giraffes regulate heat. Herd of Zebras called a dazzle because they look like they are vibrating. Local name-disco donkeys. Kudo's can jump over the cars headlights, their horns are like corkscrews and lock up often. The ox-picker bird's call will advise where game is. Doves make milk! This park is the size of Belgium
Mzungo means foreigner/white
Jambo means hello
Nakuna Matata means be happy
Grapple thorn, photo on Picasa is used for diabetes. The teak forest was used for railroad ties, imagine that. Water bucks have a white O on the rump. Antelope called brite eyes because they have a white circle around the eye. Antelopes come in other colors too, sable and roan. Kudu's have vertical stripes on the body. African darter bird has snake like neck. Lilac breasted roller is bird of Botswana and Ghana. Elephants dig down in the mud to eat it for the salt.
Victoria Falls, what to say, it is very long and narrow, causing the spray to rise to the sky. We went on a helicopter to see it. Would do that again. Hung out at the Victoria Falls hotel, with different men, maybe looked a bit suspicious, but, two of our men stayed there two different nights and we hung out with them. It is an old and beautiful colonial hotel looking out over the falls.
Also, it was a day of their protests. All we saw as we were leaving the city were lots of buses crammed with people coming in for the demonstration. We had been missing all the kerfuffle all thru Africa. Whew!
On to Antelope Park. This is a place that breeds lions so humans can walk with them, see them charge at the fence in front of your face to get their food. Elephants to ride on, etc. A really big kind of interactive zoo. Not supported by Intrepid, we went anyway. I did not participate with the animals, did laundry instead. The facility is well equipped, lots of lawn to camp on. The best part were the walkway lights cut out of sheet metal to resemble Guinea Fowl. Liked them lots. At night, this was Africa, lions roaring all night. Whooo.
Zimbabwe is named after a stone structure that has not mortar to keep it together. One of the wonders of what man can do. I have built many walls, and am in awe of those that can do that. It is basically in a spiral shape, the purpose I was told was for pre-marital teachings for women. When I asked what the men got for this insight, the gentleman that was our leader said, 'we don't need teachings'. WHAT? It is the same all over the world. There is also a royal palace and is a Unesco site from the 11th century.
We next go to Hwange National Park. This was fantastic. Our guide was Andy, who knew everything and with fervor and joy.
Animals we saw:
Giant Eagle Owl-wings make no sound
Verox eagle-black 6 foot wingspan
Cliff springer
Black baboons
Giraffe- males have squared neck and females are more round
Hippos swish their tail to spread their scat in the bush and also in the water
Elephants roll their food in the mouth, rhino's break the brush at a 45 degree angle, that is how you can tell who's scat it is.
Plants communicate with each other when leaves are eaten to the next plant downwind. It will excrete tannins to make it un-appetizing. Spots on Giraffes regulate heat. Herd of Zebras called a dazzle because they look like they are vibrating. Local name-disco donkeys. Kudo's can jump over the cars headlights, their horns are like corkscrews and lock up often. The ox-picker bird's call will advise where game is. Doves make milk! This park is the size of Belgium
Mzungo means foreigner/white
Jambo means hello
Nakuna Matata means be happy
Grapple thorn, photo on Picasa is used for diabetes. The teak forest was used for railroad ties, imagine that. Water bucks have a white O on the rump. Antelope called brite eyes because they have a white circle around the eye. Antelopes come in other colors too, sable and roan. Kudu's have vertical stripes on the body. African darter bird has snake like neck. Lilac breasted roller is bird of Botswana and Ghana. Elephants dig down in the mud to eat it for the salt.
Victoria Falls, what to say, it is very long and narrow, causing the spray to rise to the sky. We went on a helicopter to see it. Would do that again. Hung out at the Victoria Falls hotel, with different men, maybe looked a bit suspicious, but, two of our men stayed there two different nights and we hung out with them. It is an old and beautiful colonial hotel looking out over the falls.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
South Africa
WE had to change out of our truck-Helena- at the Nambian border. Cannot take a non South African working truck in. So, we emptied all our stuff into a rental van. How we now appreciated how comfy our truck was. No one heard of good suspension for a people van? Stayed at a flash campground, swimming pool, bit area to cook and grass to camp on. Oops, the sprinkler was set a bit too high and my gear got very wet. I was not a happy camper now. The white, Germanic manager was not so nice. There were some things not claimed from the truck, so I now had a wooden giraffe and a wooden bowl with Guinea Fowl painted inside. Just what I always wanted. These proved to cost me $60 to mail to the USA. Could have taken a photo instead.
Cape Town was a good as I remembered. I got new glasses, fixed the broken tooth, bought an IPod Touch and stayed a week. Got to meetings, what a relief and relaxed in my room with TV and new IPod. Lovely park and a good museum in walking distance.
Had another view from Table Mountain, did not remember that the gondola spins on its way up. I was not afraid at all. Tick that fear off.
Cape Town was a good as I remembered. I got new glasses, fixed the broken tooth, bought an IPod Touch and stayed a week. Got to meetings, what a relief and relaxed in my room with TV and new IPod. Lovely park and a good museum in walking distance.
Had another view from Table Mountain, did not remember that the gondola spins on its way up. I was not afraid at all. Tick that fear off.
Mozambique
This huge country has a bit squeezed out like a big bump, bordering Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe. We got a transit visa and drove thru it. Four border crossing experiences for this day. Lots of driving. Lots of gazing out the window.
On to the next country.
On to the next country.
Malawi
Camped on the shore of Lake Malalwi at Kandi Beach. It is long and skinny and so wide one cannot see across it. Now it has turned green, what a treat. So much sand so far.
One night we were invited to have dinner with a local family, our guide and hosts name was Mel Giblson. We sat on mats and were served delicious food, one dish made from cassava, pumpkin soup, rice, pinto beans, spinach like vegetable. the casava was rather plain, could have done with a big dollop of butter, salt and pepper. After dinner we were entertained by the children. Very trained to line up for the dancing. Even the little ones could do what was termed the 'dirty boogie' when I was a teenager, and did it better. No Victorian morals there at all. It is true, white men cannot dance. When the group was forced up to dance with the children, well, compare cooked noodles with a stick. Good fun. Camped at Lilongwe on the way to the border.
Just like the word-Lilongwe.
This beach was touted as a 'party beach', many tried to make it a reality. One group of Australians camping next to us had a costume night, some were still in them in the morning. Our group did their best, some more than others. Good thing I am retired from that kind of 'party'.
One night we were invited to have dinner with a local family, our guide and hosts name was Mel Giblson. We sat on mats and were served delicious food, one dish made from cassava, pumpkin soup, rice, pinto beans, spinach like vegetable. the casava was rather plain, could have done with a big dollop of butter, salt and pepper. After dinner we were entertained by the children. Very trained to line up for the dancing. Even the little ones could do what was termed the 'dirty boogie' when I was a teenager, and did it better. No Victorian morals there at all. It is true, white men cannot dance. When the group was forced up to dance with the children, well, compare cooked noodles with a stick. Good fun. Camped at Lilongwe on the way to the border.
Just like the word-Lilongwe.
This beach was touted as a 'party beach', many tried to make it a reality. One group of Australians camping next to us had a costume night, some were still in them in the morning. Our group did their best, some more than others. Good thing I am retired from that kind of 'party'.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Tanzania
I like the way the local people pronounce their country name, not Tan Zan ia like I learned, but, Tan Zania. Sounds exotic, and it is.
Now, I am close to the Serengeti. Exciting. We camp outside of the Ngorongoro Crater. We are told not to leave the tent at night without a torch, if it shines into the eyes and they are red, it is a hyena and if yellow, it is a lion. What a dilema to pee in the night. This is for real now. Ngorongoro means the sound of the Maasi cow bell, the local saying is: the road is singing and we are dancing. The crater is 250 Square Kilometers. The animals are special in the crater, they cannot get out except the elephant, it can walk up the road. The Big Five are in this crater. Lion, rhino, elephant, leopard, zebra and hippo. Saw them all along the track.
Ah, the Serengeti of TV fame. OOOHH, now it is time to get up for the sunrise balloon ride over the Serengeti. We get a ride to the site, watch the gas burners start to inflate the balloon. Our pilot gives up our place in the basket, it holds 16 and we load while it is on its side. Seems too big to lift. Then it is time to get in, lay down and pray. It starts to tip us vertical and slowly it rises, it is so quiet and gentle, I did not even know it was off the ground. We floated at different heights, sometimes at tree tops level and then higher. It was like on TV. I did not talk, was to in awe to do so. After we had a five star breakfast and were told how the name came to be for the pilot. He was a pioneer in the balloon experiment in France. When he finally made it work, champagne was called for, after all, it was France. His name was Mr. Pilot. Good one, eh?
This was a highlight of my trip.
On to Zanzibar, the most exotic name of the trip. We did go to a spice farm and learned so much about how they grow and some I never heard of before. I have tried to make the masala chai work that I got there, not the same. From Dar Es Salaam we went on a ferry to the island. What was I thinking staying out in the sun? I was wondering why my forehead felt sore, after all I had put sun screen on it early in the day. Forgetting that I was wiping it because I was hot. At least it kept me out of the sun on the island. Not much for a beach holiday. The main town of Stonetown was a big transit place for the slaves that poured out of Africa. Awful conditions that humans can impose on each other. Men were kept in a cell without water or food, then to a whipping post, mde from a Jojoba tree. Only the strong survived, that was the theory for the bad conditions. They were worth more money if they did not cry out. Zanzibar is 90% Muslim. Seemed odd. Glad to go.
South of Dar was another brush with danger. We were on a windy mountain road that was under construction. We had the green light, and then, here comes a big truck head on to us. Jase manourvered us off the road, into the dirt, we tipped at a precarious angle, then he righted us and back on the road. He was a policeman and had extra training, a blessing that day. When we were in the Serengeti, I was told that those big trucks could tip quite far as they were so heavy and the center of gravity was so low. I was thinking of that when I was looking down at the ground out the window and felt safe. Then we saw three trucks overturned. Bravo Jase.
Now, I am close to the Serengeti. Exciting. We camp outside of the Ngorongoro Crater. We are told not to leave the tent at night without a torch, if it shines into the eyes and they are red, it is a hyena and if yellow, it is a lion. What a dilema to pee in the night. This is for real now. Ngorongoro means the sound of the Maasi cow bell, the local saying is: the road is singing and we are dancing. The crater is 250 Square Kilometers. The animals are special in the crater, they cannot get out except the elephant, it can walk up the road. The Big Five are in this crater. Lion, rhino, elephant, leopard, zebra and hippo. Saw them all along the track.
Ah, the Serengeti of TV fame. OOOHH, now it is time to get up for the sunrise balloon ride over the Serengeti. We get a ride to the site, watch the gas burners start to inflate the balloon. Our pilot gives up our place in the basket, it holds 16 and we load while it is on its side. Seems too big to lift. Then it is time to get in, lay down and pray. It starts to tip us vertical and slowly it rises, it is so quiet and gentle, I did not even know it was off the ground. We floated at different heights, sometimes at tree tops level and then higher. It was like on TV. I did not talk, was to in awe to do so. After we had a five star breakfast and were told how the name came to be for the pilot. He was a pioneer in the balloon experiment in France. When he finally made it work, champagne was called for, after all, it was France. His name was Mr. Pilot. Good one, eh?
This was a highlight of my trip.
On to Zanzibar, the most exotic name of the trip. We did go to a spice farm and learned so much about how they grow and some I never heard of before. I have tried to make the masala chai work that I got there, not the same. From Dar Es Salaam we went on a ferry to the island. What was I thinking staying out in the sun? I was wondering why my forehead felt sore, after all I had put sun screen on it early in the day. Forgetting that I was wiping it because I was hot. At least it kept me out of the sun on the island. Not much for a beach holiday. The main town of Stonetown was a big transit place for the slaves that poured out of Africa. Awful conditions that humans can impose on each other. Men were kept in a cell without water or food, then to a whipping post, mde from a Jojoba tree. Only the strong survived, that was the theory for the bad conditions. They were worth more money if they did not cry out. Zanzibar is 90% Muslim. Seemed odd. Glad to go.
South of Dar was another brush with danger. We were on a windy mountain road that was under construction. We had the green light, and then, here comes a big truck head on to us. Jase manourvered us off the road, into the dirt, we tipped at a precarious angle, then he righted us and back on the road. He was a policeman and had extra training, a blessing that day. When we were in the Serengeti, I was told that those big trucks could tip quite far as they were so heavy and the center of gravity was so low. I was thinking of that when I was looking down at the ground out the window and felt safe. Then we saw three trucks overturned. Bravo Jase.
Kenya
We camp at the border on the grounds of the police station. Katie, my southern belle, freaks out at all the cockroaches in the outhouse, called a 'drop toilet' here. Some drops are longer than others. There was a lot. We cross the border with a police guard. In fact, we have had many police/guards on the trip so far. We were in a 'no mans land' a disputed part between Ethiopia and Kenya. Don't know why, not much there. A bit further on, with no guns on board, there were guns outside. We were shot at by three gunmen, wearing shorts, which I thought was so casual. Heard a shot hit the truck, the command from Jase, the leader/driver to get down! We did just that. Before I went down, I saw one of the gunmen with this rifle. They were aiming for the tires to blow them and we would stop. They missed and Jase drove on-fast. The bullet probably hit the wheel and spun off. We were lucky, the bandits are plentiful in this area, we found out later.
We arrived at our first real animal park. Our guides were from the Samburu tribe. They are like the Maasai but not so touristy. They are beautiful people and dress a bit like the TV Maasai, red sarongs, with lots of beads and wonderful hairdo's. We saw a leopard in a tree and my favorite deer, they have long necks and big ears. Exciting. The tribe danced for us, now we know why they jump so much. The spear goes further. Simple. Many of the tribes we went to jumped while dancing.
I was standing on the edge of the Great Rift Valley, finally. It is a very big slit in the earth. While in Addis Ababa we saw the famous, Lucy. Not at all what I thought, she is very small and looks like a monkey. I guess I thought she would look like a shorter me.
Here were the first hippo's. They don't look so big in the water until they open their mouths. On land they are almost as big as a rhino.
All I saw of Nairobi was a bed and a toilet. Thank the Gods that Lynette's friend Claire took care of me in her home. What a waste of several days. At the least, I felt rested after and ready to re-join my group. One night in the fancy hotel and we were off again.
And, the first person was voted off the Dragoman reality show. Thank Clod.
We arrived at our first real animal park. Our guides were from the Samburu tribe. They are like the Maasai but not so touristy. They are beautiful people and dress a bit like the TV Maasai, red sarongs, with lots of beads and wonderful hairdo's. We saw a leopard in a tree and my favorite deer, they have long necks and big ears. Exciting. The tribe danced for us, now we know why they jump so much. The spear goes further. Simple. Many of the tribes we went to jumped while dancing.
I was standing on the edge of the Great Rift Valley, finally. It is a very big slit in the earth. While in Addis Ababa we saw the famous, Lucy. Not at all what I thought, she is very small and looks like a monkey. I guess I thought she would look like a shorter me.
Here were the first hippo's. They don't look so big in the water until they open their mouths. On land they are almost as big as a rhino.
All I saw of Nairobi was a bed and a toilet. Thank the Gods that Lynette's friend Claire took care of me in her home. What a waste of several days. At the least, I felt rested after and ready to re-join my group. One night in the fancy hotel and we were off again.
And, the first person was voted off the Dragoman reality show. Thank Clod.
Addis Ababa to Nairobi
Leaving Addis we headed for the Shala Park and Lake Abiata. We camped on to of the mountain looking down on the salt lakes. This sunset was THE ONE of the magazines, umbrella Acacia tree, mountains, deep colors in the sky. I had arrived. I was really in Africa. We stayed in a lodge, bunk style. Our group decided to BBQ, inside. It looked like it would work, big pit with a hood and such. However, we had to evacuate as the smoke really did not have a way out. We had a family of wart hogs that came into the camp for some water, many big antelope were also roaming about. Here is where we were invited into tribal camps. I am so glad to be me. Our guide was named Dhasa, he is from the Hamer tribe. When we went to the home of a family, we were served coffee, this is made from the outside shell and boiled, then served in half a huge gourd. I do not know, nor thought to ask what happened to the inside, which is what we brew and drink. The home was a very small hut, no light and cooking on the ground outside. We were shown an outside bed, it was a small depression in the dirt with one small animal skin laid in it. The women never bathed, the male situation was not mentioned. All of us were so quiet, no one asked. In this area starts the scarification and some very interesting rituals. One of which is the Jumping of the Bulls. No ordinary jumping like in Crete, nooo. When a man is ready to marry, he must jump up on the backs of many bulls lined up. He must not fall as he runs across all of them, jump down and repeat it four times. Nude. All duded up with beads, hair do, shiny skin. We did get to witness this passage. If he falls, no marriage. I believe he must wait years to try again. It is a very big ceremony, involving hundreds of people. The hardest part for us was the women. Seems that the more blood they can get to run while beating themselves with a switch shows how much they love this man and please choose me. This part was hard and confusing, lots of women that were not in the running, also were beating themselves. If he misses, he gets the switch. A very exciting day for all, adrenalen was hig for the participants and us viewers.
One village had the 'Singing for the Bulls". this was a very long and deep trench dug in as a ramp to a well. The men went down the well on little ladders to bucket up the water, which was put in a trough for the cattle. When the cattle hear the singing, they know it is time for a drink. The singing is done to keep a rhythem going to haul up the buckets. Very impressive.
Another village used small trees trunks and branches to make the walkways around the village. Through out the village were plazas. In the plaza were commerative stones, shaped like tall, thin tombstones, these marked the 'warrier' that had killed another village warrier. I got a coughing attack and could not hear it anymore. Too much praise for murder and something in there made me cough. Also in this village was the most unusual necklace, made from cockroach shells. I touched it, wished I had not as the back part of the shell was like a needle and I got stabbed with it. I did not buy it.
One village had the 'Singing for the Bulls". this was a very long and deep trench dug in as a ramp to a well. The men went down the well on little ladders to bucket up the water, which was put in a trough for the cattle. When the cattle hear the singing, they know it is time for a drink. The singing is done to keep a rhythem going to haul up the buckets. Very impressive.
Another village used small trees trunks and branches to make the walkways around the village. Through out the village were plazas. In the plaza were commerative stones, shaped like tall, thin tombstones, these marked the 'warrier' that had killed another village warrier. I got a coughing attack and could not hear it anymore. Too much praise for murder and something in there made me cough. Also in this village was the most unusual necklace, made from cockroach shells. I touched it, wished I had not as the back part of the shell was like a needle and I got stabbed with it. I did not buy it.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Ethiopia
First thing I learned was how to ask for the toilet. shinta bet? Works every time, and I get a giggle with the directions. Now, we are in Africa of the movies. The huts start at the border area, round with thatched roofs. Flowers are now at the roadside, no more desert now. Right at the border were the mountains. No wonder they are so separate. And, what mountains, holy cow. Imagine a long truck, geared low like the cement truck she used to be, chugging up the steep, windy roads. Oh, the roads. The Chinese are funding them, and all over the country the roads are being made. Their plan is to make a bit by a village and then make another bit by another village with off road detours in between, makes for a hard drive. As we approached Gonder, there appeared hugh apartment blocks, seemed as if they had been beamed down there from another place. My first awareness of Ethiopia was the famine. I know now that it was not necessary, there was plenty of food. Just not in the right place and the president Halle Sallassie was the highest manipulator of all. Gonder is the city of castles and palaces. Not as we know them, but all the same, they were the cats meow in their day. Had the best pizza, I know it sounds a bit sacriligeous to not have tibs, but the restaurant did not have a big selection. It was the best pizza ever, Sesame and cheese. Have to try it some day for myself. Regular food is the Tibs-lamb, tomato, onion, berberri(hot), garlic, served with indura-a fermented crepe style of bread/plate. Quite good. Ate lots of it. The store had peanut butter! The best poet of Ethiopia-Master Gebrehanna" was invited to the castle and then refused entry because he did not have on 'clean' clothes. He had come straight from the monastary for his award. Others interceded and he was taken to the banquet table where he proceeded to put the food in his clothes. His reply at the confusion was, "it is my clothes which were invited" The white cap on the priests represents the crown of thorns on Jesus, white shawl the shroud, leaning stick is pounded on the floor to represent Jesus being beaten with a stick, a rattle that goes back and forth to represent Jesus face being slapped. Very intense.
Leaving Gonder, we headed for a small town called Debark. The drivers were hopelessly lost for four hours in the mountains and very dark. Back up and try another way. Gave them my compass as the GPS was in and out. So much for modern things. There was no one in the road when we got there very late, and the next morning, it was full of people wandering around in shrouds, I kid you not. It is the way to dress and has been for a very long time, looks like a thousand Jesus' wandering around in a Cecil B. Demille movie.
Now a fun part. I was supposed to walk ie: trek up a mountain for 2 days? good thing one of the women had altitude sickness and then fainted hitting her head, I was so available to help her, flagged down a truck, her man gave some money and off we were to the top of the mountain. Thank Clod.
On to Aksum. This is the center of Christianity in Africa. Aksumite empire is from 500BC, the tallest obelish is over 2000 years old. The calender is 7 years younger than ours. There are three different styles of crosses for the churchs there. The Ark of the Covenent is said to lie here under guard, no women allowed. Humm
Lalibela: home of the rock hewn church's, wow is an understatement. I have seen the best one, St George, it is the one carved straight down into the ground in the shape of a cross, then hollowed out to make the church inside. By hand...
Bahir Dar; means by the sea. To greet another, shake hands and touch right shoulders, if it has been a longer time that one has not seen the other, hugs and kisses. if it is a priest, kiss his knee.
We got to 4330 meters at Sanetti Plateau, could hardly breathe. Just stayed still.
Plastic changed the water burden, easier to carry for the children.
Palo Alto California sponsors a music festival in Arba Minch, guess that is why E. Palo Alto is mostly black, must be from Ethiopia.
If one hits a cow with the car it is 1500 Birr, a donkey is 2000 birr.
We stopped for lunch by the side of the road, so many people appear to watch us. One place there was a cow slaughtered and our Paul got right over there and got us some meat for dinner.
Addis Ababa, best thing was the hotel and the spa. It was the home of Halle Sallissee's palace and his place of downfall.
Leaving Gonder, we headed for a small town called Debark. The drivers were hopelessly lost for four hours in the mountains and very dark. Back up and try another way. Gave them my compass as the GPS was in and out. So much for modern things. There was no one in the road when we got there very late, and the next morning, it was full of people wandering around in shrouds, I kid you not. It is the way to dress and has been for a very long time, looks like a thousand Jesus' wandering around in a Cecil B. Demille movie.
Now a fun part. I was supposed to walk ie: trek up a mountain for 2 days? good thing one of the women had altitude sickness and then fainted hitting her head, I was so available to help her, flagged down a truck, her man gave some money and off we were to the top of the mountain. Thank Clod.
On to Aksum. This is the center of Christianity in Africa. Aksumite empire is from 500BC, the tallest obelish is over 2000 years old. The calender is 7 years younger than ours. There are three different styles of crosses for the churchs there. The Ark of the Covenent is said to lie here under guard, no women allowed. Humm
Lalibela: home of the rock hewn church's, wow is an understatement. I have seen the best one, St George, it is the one carved straight down into the ground in the shape of a cross, then hollowed out to make the church inside. By hand...
Bahir Dar; means by the sea. To greet another, shake hands and touch right shoulders, if it has been a longer time that one has not seen the other, hugs and kisses. if it is a priest, kiss his knee.
We got to 4330 meters at Sanetti Plateau, could hardly breathe. Just stayed still.
Plastic changed the water burden, easier to carry for the children.
Palo Alto California sponsors a music festival in Arba Minch, guess that is why E. Palo Alto is mostly black, must be from Ethiopia.
If one hits a cow with the car it is 1500 Birr, a donkey is 2000 birr.
We stopped for lunch by the side of the road, so many people appear to watch us. One place there was a cow slaughtered and our Paul got right over there and got us some meat for dinner.
Addis Ababa, best thing was the hotel and the spa. It was the home of Halle Sallissee's palace and his place of downfall.
Friday, February 11, 2011
The Sudan
We all were jubilant when we finally got our visa for The Sudan. It was touch and go. The American Embassy would not let us in nor answer the phone, very reassuring. To enter the Sudan one must go on the ferry across lake Nasser. We had cabins on the ferry, don't think it was in any way luxury, but a 1000 times better than steerage. It was a bed with a porthole for Anne, my roommate, better than not. To board was just a crush of humanity, porters with impossible loads on their heads, needing to get their wares on so they could go and get another load, so many people and all their stuff as well, funneled thru one small gang plank. Push and shove was the only way to move forward. The toilets, well, that is another issue all together. I really need to get a full skirt and give up the undies. At least it was a very smooth crossing. 17 hours it took to cross, adding on the pre-departure and post paperwork, it was 24 hours. Much paper work involved, and a thermometer stuck in our ear, could you please clean it between? Our trip notes say we stay in basic rooms, Anne and I just had to laugh, it was like a prison cell with marks on the wall, could not touch anything in the room, it really was funny or horrible, take your pick. We were there for two nights as we had to wait for the truck, Daphne, to arrive on a separate barge.
Finally we off for the adventure of Sudan. The vote is not until Jan 6th for their decision to be one or two countries. All was calm. The people are the best so far. So respectful, not bothering one all the time and helpful and smiles all the time. For the travelers there are water amphora's all over, by the side of the road, at the gas stations, everywhere. Most were shaped like the ones from ancient Greece being held up by a frame. We were off for nine days of bush camping to cross the desert to Khartoum. We had some amazing camps beside pyramids and between hugh sand dunes. One was buy 6 cement factories all around us in the desert. I got up to watch the sun rise and hit the pyramids of Meroe to turn them a bit golden. We wandered for over an hour in a village looking for a granite quarry with an unfinished Egyptian statue, so many smiles along the way, good being lost sometimes. I found a piece of Funj pottery at Deffufa, I am not declaring that. We stopped at Jebel Barkel, a holy mountain with many temples, pyramids, tombs, hieroglyphics in caves. The donkeys are so small, looks funny to see one coming at a trot with a grown man on the back of it, like he is riding a toy. We got our first try at the sand mats, dug the wheels out of the sand, put them under the wheels and pushed. Out we came.
Nubian area is different architecture, doors are painted bright colors, geometric decorations on the walls of the house and the surrounding walls. This is a country of dump truck loads all over. At the side of the roads, probably from construction, just everywhere. There are little melons growing all over this area before Khartoum, maybe the camels eat them, people do not. We got to another archaeological site, were out of water and tired of bush camping. Well, the Gods were good to us, there was a dorm for the site that archaeologists came to stay, it was offered to us, warm shower and a bed, not the tent. Yes, we will take advantage of your hospitality. Wonderful, these little things. One of the gentlemen had scarification on his cheeks, like a T on both sides, it only made him more handsome.
Khartoum. Camped at the Blue Nile Sailing club. First night I was in the parking lot, not the second or third. I got onto the grass area. We were beside the Nile. It is where the white Nile and the blue Nile converge. Could not see the colors, not the right time of the year. Found a spa, yes indeed, we were off for that. I soaked my body in all the warm, hot, bubbly, water that was on offer, and a massage, and the sauna and the steam, and the ham mam and the jacuzzi, I did enjoy it. We also had Christmas dinner at this very fancy hotel. We had secret Santa, crackers from England, a good time was had by all. Oh, and turkey on the buffet. My favorite dish was a croissant pudding. I asked how it was made. Croissants, cream, coconut milk, sugar, cinnamon, probably eggs. Oh, my, I wanted doggy bag for it. Yummy. Daphne is decorated for Christmas as well, tinsel all over it, balls, and little Santa's, reminds me of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert movie. There is mobile all over the desert, where do they get charged? Also went to Midnight Mass, there were only 6 white faces that I could see. Baby Jesus was blond, and very white. Confusing.
On the road again, to Ethiopia, or as the locals pronounce it, Utopia.
Finally we off for the adventure of Sudan. The vote is not until Jan 6th for their decision to be one or two countries. All was calm. The people are the best so far. So respectful, not bothering one all the time and helpful and smiles all the time. For the travelers there are water amphora's all over, by the side of the road, at the gas stations, everywhere. Most were shaped like the ones from ancient Greece being held up by a frame. We were off for nine days of bush camping to cross the desert to Khartoum. We had some amazing camps beside pyramids and between hugh sand dunes. One was buy 6 cement factories all around us in the desert. I got up to watch the sun rise and hit the pyramids of Meroe to turn them a bit golden. We wandered for over an hour in a village looking for a granite quarry with an unfinished Egyptian statue, so many smiles along the way, good being lost sometimes. I found a piece of Funj pottery at Deffufa, I am not declaring that. We stopped at Jebel Barkel, a holy mountain with many temples, pyramids, tombs, hieroglyphics in caves. The donkeys are so small, looks funny to see one coming at a trot with a grown man on the back of it, like he is riding a toy. We got our first try at the sand mats, dug the wheels out of the sand, put them under the wheels and pushed. Out we came.
Nubian area is different architecture, doors are painted bright colors, geometric decorations on the walls of the house and the surrounding walls. This is a country of dump truck loads all over. At the side of the roads, probably from construction, just everywhere. There are little melons growing all over this area before Khartoum, maybe the camels eat them, people do not. We got to another archaeological site, were out of water and tired of bush camping. Well, the Gods were good to us, there was a dorm for the site that archaeologists came to stay, it was offered to us, warm shower and a bed, not the tent. Yes, we will take advantage of your hospitality. Wonderful, these little things. One of the gentlemen had scarification on his cheeks, like a T on both sides, it only made him more handsome.
Khartoum. Camped at the Blue Nile Sailing club. First night I was in the parking lot, not the second or third. I got onto the grass area. We were beside the Nile. It is where the white Nile and the blue Nile converge. Could not see the colors, not the right time of the year. Found a spa, yes indeed, we were off for that. I soaked my body in all the warm, hot, bubbly, water that was on offer, and a massage, and the sauna and the steam, and the ham mam and the jacuzzi, I did enjoy it. We also had Christmas dinner at this very fancy hotel. We had secret Santa, crackers from England, a good time was had by all. Oh, and turkey on the buffet. My favorite dish was a croissant pudding. I asked how it was made. Croissants, cream, coconut milk, sugar, cinnamon, probably eggs. Oh, my, I wanted doggy bag for it. Yummy. Daphne is decorated for Christmas as well, tinsel all over it, balls, and little Santa's, reminds me of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert movie. There is mobile all over the desert, where do they get charged? Also went to Midnight Mass, there were only 6 white faces that I could see. Baby Jesus was blond, and very white. Confusing.
On the road again, to Ethiopia, or as the locals pronounce it, Utopia.
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