Jordan 2009

The sign says, "Iraq 301 KM", well, I think this is a close as I will get. I am in the desert looking for the ruin of Azraq, and it quite a sight, rising from the desert like a 4 star hotel. The next one is the "oldest" fresco's. It is a very small place with scarcely seen fresco's, also in the barren desert. So much desert, and so much fighting over it, not being a desert person, one has to wonder. There are many "police training" camps along the way, that is what I am told they are. Big, gated, lots of barbed wire. A pipeline is being laid alongside the road from Iraq.
TV ad for furniture is heavy, dark, thick fabric and big proportions.
Music: young women in T-tops moving somewhere between belly-dancing and Afro-American, very non Muslim.
At one rest stop the host came out and gave me a very warm handshake stating that he was "made in Jordan=genuine Bedouin". He was so beautiful, I got shy and wanted to mate. Some things never change. Inside the tent were long low benches covered with carpets as well as the floor. On these are special arm rests, shaped kind of like a saddle, padded and easy to lean on for smoking and tea. It works.
Speaking of carpets, wasn't I? On a plane to Hong Kong, my seat mate said he was on his way to the sourcing fair to buy carpets, and he came from Persia. Can't trust anything.
In Aman I saw what is to be the oldest human sculpture, it reputed to be 6000 BC. It is a squarish figure with two heads with distinct faces. Was exciting to see it. It looked in very good shape.
Then I went to the sea. Cities are crowded, crumbling, dirty-enough. Fresh air. My host there wanted show me how much he knew English, he sure could say, fuck, a lot. So, he knew American English. If he only knew.
Now, on to Petra, the reason for coming to the Middle East. I went on a long walk thru the "Sig" ie, slot canyon. Refusing a man with a horse, did the Cougar bit with him, said I would be back, be ready. He was gone then. As I walked through the canyon the walls got so tall and winding, I could not see ahead of me. That only increased the excitement of being in the place of this fantastic carving done by man. On one wall there were carving of a camel train and a trough to carry water, clever. Then, there is was, peering thru the canyon. What a dramatic entrance. Worthy of the scene. It is so tall and glowing with light. In the entrance of the facade, for it is that, was a ceremonial soldier dressed very elegantly as the desert ones do. Tailored olive long dress, bandoleers, headdress, mustache. My goal was to sit and paint this fantastic sight, then, I was lured on by the promise of more facades and a Roman theatre. It does go on and on, who knew. I stopped before the Colonnaded Street and returned to execute my goal. As I trudged back up the dusty, rocky and very hot path to the glorious pink sandstone structure, knowing I wast o have a mint tea and paint. Oops, I have arrived too late and that glowing light had gone. Was so taken by the glory of it, that I did not pay attention that is was a narrow canyon and the light will only last so long. I did draw it and will have it in my memory forever.
60% of people in Jordan are Palestinian refugees. Don't say that on TV. In Aman, the government will paint all the houses in the old city the same yellow and reddish colors. Don't know why. Women in Palestine come to Jordan for the freedom