Urumqi

Urumqi story. I was prepared to spend 17 hours in the Urumqi airport. I have spent months trying to ascertain the situation after China Southern changed my flight from Tehran to Taipei. Urumqi has a two hour transit visa-maybe. Hence the problem. China Southern airline, Chinese Embassy, Chinese friends, blogs, none could give me information, nor, prepare me for the following.

   Tehran: refused me boarding as I had no visa. I argued that is was the airlines mistake and I should board, I'll stay in the airport. One policeman called his boss who called Urumqi airport. I got on. 

    Urumqi: Refused me entry as I had no visa. Seems I can't stay in the airport because I have to go thru customs and check back in. Oops. Never did I get that info. I stood my ground, calmly. I said I didn't care how it was fixed, I'll wait. More police. More bosses. Passport out of my hands. More airline bosses. 👏🏻they will let me in! Airline boss says you could go to a hotel to rest, at my expense. Calmly, I say no, at your expense. (I know this is a rule) OK. Where is my bag now? It's found and I'm put in a special place to wait for the bus for hotel. I get a ride to downtown for the hotel, not next to airport. Bonus. Nice room. I fall into bed, sleep, wake, eat the stash I have for the 17 hour lay over, sleep, called to the bus. Now, it's a night ride back and the city is full of lights.

   Next hurdles: check in goes well. Sent to a 'open bag inspection' I really don't understand this and English is scant. I go to a counter where I see people opening their bag and removing items. No que at all, a free for all. My time in Greece helped me to elbow in to see my bag pass onto a conveyor-gone. Show my bag claim and am waved on.

    Now it's dodgy. There are five check points and it's chock a block with Uygurs. No queuing! I get thru 4 and then stopped. I'm told I must go back and do the open bag check. And then do the check points again. There are many hundreds in there lines. I emphatically said: I have done it and was cleared. I'm refused at the checkpoint, told if I don't do this, I will not get my bag in Taipei. A police woman takes my passport and has no sense of humor no wants to communicate. I find an airline person. I say to him, clearly and with conviction, my bag passed, I'm not going back, I'll miss the plane, please fix this. Time passes. He returned, gives me my passport and I ask him to take me past the line to be free. Done. I never envisioned it would be harder getting out than in. 

   Did I have visions of Tom Hanks trapped? Yes, but I kept the Serenity Prayer going and was mostly calm.

Iran Oct. 2016

$1 = 31,600 Rial

Gas- 10,000 rial 

No McDonalds to compare like Lonely Planet

   What to say about Iran. It's a big desert, one salt and one not. Plenty of minerals being mined. Long drives from Turkmenistan, the start point, to get to the 'sights'. The mandatory cover up is fussy and hot. Scarf around my neck is especially hot. Tends to make me a bit testy. Using the neck cooler, this helps. If I didn't tie the scarf well out of the way, straight away it fell into the squat toilet when I squatted. I'm a fast learner.       

    Zoroastrianism seems to have less smiting than other practices. They were too peaceful, probably why they dwindled. Did see the, still burning, holy flame. It's fed with wood, not like the modern gas ones. 

   People are so welcoming, plenty of smiles to collect. We wave at hundreds from the truck. 

   It is a festival- Muharam-honoring a past Oman Husein. Black is worn by the men, big gatherings to repeat his words, co-ordinated rhythmic chest slapping and a bundle of chains over the shoulder by the men. Women behind a fabric fence with the children. Tea is supplied in copious quantities and food given to the poor. 

    Sweets abound in many forms. Special shops with a plate of samples to choose your favorites before placing an order. Lovely little muffin of cardamom and pistachio.   

    In Yadz, one building was a mosque style and when lit by pale blue lighting on its deep blue tiles was breathtaking. 

    Many accomodations have been small, airless cubes. Suffocating. 

   If a man has sex with a married woman- death.

   If a man had sex with a virgin-2 years jail. 

    If a man has sex with another man-death.

   Don't know the penalty for the woman.

   Persepolis is the only ancient ruin I have seen that has three capitals on each column. This whole area was only used for New Year ceremony. 

   Ladies toilet outline has a scarf on her. 

     The stone shops all have the pieces in long slabs, ripe for cutting tiles. 

   Ayatollah Kohmeni's tomb has many gold minarets in a hugh complex. 

   Under the overpasses there are terraces of ivy, making it a wall of green. 

   Cars are fixed at the side of the road, in front of the shop, the size of a small cafe. 

   Us tourists look very rag tag and the locals look very smart- fashionable, not the chador wearers. 

   Mosques decorated with three themes: geometric, floral, calligraphy. 

    I expected more soaring tile coveted buildings, much like the 'Stans'. I clearly did not do my homework. 

   I was lucky to get in, three other US citizens applied, they did not get the OK. 

    

 

Muharan -Festival Iran - Oct. 2016

 It is a festival, honoring the past Imam Husein's suffering and martyrdom. Black is worn by the men, there are big gatherings to repeat his words, co-ordinated rhythmic chest slapping and a handle with chains lopped into it, this for rhythmic slapping on the back. This was done by large groups of men marching down the street, pace set by big flat drums.,one side slapped, then the other. Very lower charka. Women behind a fabric fence with the children. Blood is not drawn in Iran now, however it was and still is in Pakistan and India. 

    Tea is supplied in copious quantities and food given to the poor. I don't fancy tea much, but this was so exceptional. I tried to buy some, however, all shops were out. Guess they used it all up serving thousands. Too bad. 

    

Taipei Oct 2016

     Metro has decorations on the opposite wall from platform-lights, art work. Clean, operational toilets. Food vending machine. Information people. Easy to use  ticket machines. Lines on platform for waiting to board and exiting. People que up in lines. Also form a line for escalators. Charging points complete with a shelf and WiFi. 

   Lunch, beef and rice plus garlic soy beans $100.

  Loose implant crown fixed- $130 USD

  New purple frames for progressive lenses-$30. The bifocal with the line is being fazed out. Being forced to use the progressive ones. Just like real light bulbs. 

   Why cook here. I could eat for under $200 a day. 

   I really didn't venture out very much, at least not daily. It was so hot and humid, lost my serenity. Did I miss another museum? Not really. My hostess was so helpful and took good care of me. I caught up on paperwork and such. 

  Was an adventure venturing out for food. I'm so glad for Google maps!

  

Albania Sept. 2016

M

A$1.00 = 1.22 Lek

Movie AND popcorn: 130 Lek

Lavaza coffee package 250gr.: 300lek

Bottle of water: 50-70 Lek

Bottle of beer: 150 Lek

   My perceived history lesson: after they banded together thanks to Skandeberg, they lived easily together-then came communism, whoe to all, except the politburo, that fell, now Albanians are going full tilt to happy, joyous and free.

   Orthodox, Catholic and Bekdashee Muslim exist together. 

  St. Nikolas Orthodox Church -1721, has original frescos and a pulpit shaped like a hot air balloon. Entrancing. 

    City of Sarande, booming housing on the beach, flats for $25,000. 

   Stuffed toy hung at corner of house for the evil spirit to see it first to protect the home. 

   450 small hydropower plants instead of big one. Economical and ecological-they have plenty of water.

    In fact, it's turquoise.

   Permanent circus in Tirana, lots of slapstick tumbling. Too hot for trapeze. 

       Communism oddities: (to us)

    1974- Alkan Nallbani paintings blacklisted and sculptures destroyed.

   Agave plants covering hillsides to prevent paratroopers landing.

  Whole valley hillsides terraced for olive and mandarins after cut off from China.

  700,000 bunkers created.

   Villages isolated that were close to borders fearing invasion.

   Roads curved to prevent planes landing.

   No laughing in public.

   The Supreme Ruler-Enver

      No one could have his name

      Lists of prohibited names, mainly saints

       Soldiers trained to bark like dogs to flush out game and then shot it for him.

        Divers put fish on his hook

        Diabetes made him insane

        Convinced people outsiders would come and invade and bomb

         Gravestones only a slab, now, very fancy.

      Et'em Bay Mosque is an 18th c. That stood unmolested during communist rule and has frescos of trees and waterfalls. It's so sweet. 

   Favorite dish: tavë Kosi. Lamb in a thick base of rice, yogurt and eggs. 

    A real gem, is Albania. 

          

   

    

  

Armenia Sept. 2016

    First impression from airport: strip clubs, casinos, hotel/sauna-all very flashy.

   $1.00 = 473 Dram

     500 Dr.- Armenian pizza plus pomegranate drink

     500 Dr. - bag chips, cappuccino packet, cream cheese package

     100 Dr. Ride to town in the gitney. 1000 Dr. for same ride in a taxi.

      In the grocery store, a woman shadows me, either so I don't steal or to help me. So, I ask her questions, gives us both a purpose. In my local store, there is a full size Kaliknakof shaped vodka bottle in an olive metal box. Speechless. 

   Soviet era blue polyester track suits are still popular. 

   Men give their seat to women on bus as do women to older women, also squeeze together and hold others packages if there is no seat. 

   Tried to climb a hill to see the oldest churches. Checked the altimeter-+6000 ft. So stopped. 

  Many in this group live in North America, Armenians and Iranians. As always, where's my reciprocity?

   Its Independence Day today, Sept. 21. Parade in TV, military. They have the best precision marching, rifle tossing I have ever seen. 25 years from Communism and doing very well. 

    Whole Mountains of obsidian, and, I'm told, a green one. Have not seen it. Saw iridescent green stones for sale, turned out to be Moonstone. I now have a piece of that. My weakness. Not so good for a perpetual traveler. 

    Folk show was stunning. The choreography was different and a treat. My god, they can jump!

    Buildings are of square blocks of tufa, which has many colors. Yerevan is the pink city.

    A good visit. Treated so kindly. 

Slovenia July 2016

     Ah, time out.

Had my last Cheese Burek upon leaving ,

What's better than cheese in puff pastry.  

Picked the tastiest strawberries ever at friends home where I stayed while they were on vacation. Did some dental work, the reviews were good, experience for me was not good. First time a dentist used a hammer! It's still sore. 

   On to the next hill. 

Dresden June 2016

   Today was a hypocritical day in the city. On one side is a museum show concerning conspicuous consumption and the poor laborers that made the items and at another museum is the conspicuous consumption of Augustus II. I choose not to see that palace, each room crammed with treasures. Somehow to be proud of that put me off. 

    Very good tram system-also on the digital stop monitor is information, museum or other information.

     Mini hostel had 6 rooms, each one different theme. I had Winter, others: Savannah, Africa, honeymoon, King, and another that I didn't translate and couldn't get to see. 

     Meissen porcelain has a demonstration tour that is just what I wanted to see. Then more stuff than imaginable to buy or look at in their museum. It's called white gold because Augustus II was told gold could be made from other substances, whatever was invented was European porcelian, which he was inordinately fond of. 

    Attended the opera: Eugen Onigan. I believe it's the third build of the building. I did read the synopsis before or I would have had no idea of the story, except of love-one of the many manifestations of it.

    Created here: carbonated water, toothpaste, a transparent body with idea of hygiene, catagoring races- leading to the idea of superior ones. 

    Didn't like it here-at all. Leaving now.

    It's one of those places that I fly blind. Comprehension is minimal. 

    

Scotland April/May 2016

  Just passed a small train station, along the building it looked like a jumble sale. Knick knacks, mannequins, cow bells, all sorts of stuff. It was not locked up. Small town charm. 

    "Famine walls" are stone walls built during the potatoe famine as a way for those better off to help the poorer ones. They worked for food. 

  Geo. Orwell wrote 1984 on island of Dewer. 

   Road sign: weak road

  Celtic cross developed on Iona to strengthen the arms of the cross.

    I feel out of place on this ferry to Staffa where Fingels cave is. The inspiration for Mendolsson's Hebrides Overtute. I played it before I went. Felt out of place  because I did not have hiking boots on or zip off cargo pants. The cave is on Staffa island, which is composed of basalt columns, some straight up, some organized in wave formations. Highly recommended. Apparently a giant tossed it over from the Giants Causeway in a fit of anger. 

   The ride from the West to Edinburgh is stunningly beautiful. 

Ireland April 2016

   Seen on a billboard: You've traveled a long way, let us pour you a drink. Jameson Whiskey... Enough said 🍶

     It's green, just like they say in all the books. 

       What better place to see a rainbow than over the Irish Sea? The Leprecan must be swimming under it, that's the secret place for gold. 

       When you step on a bus in yet another city, strange language, do I have the correct change?, and then go up the stairs to the front seat on a double decker bus-Then I know I'm living my fantasy life. How blessed I am every day. Even the days I think I'm a bit crazy for living like I do,

    Been in the hotel bed for two days, resting. So, left the car to walk to find a replacement clip for my backpack, found them and the cinema. Toilet was a pay to get in. Memories of the Greyhound station in Minneapolis. 

    I am driving a five speed on the opposite side I am used to. I get so lost in the roundabouts. Five times I turned around in the same driveway, not counting the illegal U turns. Looking for my hostel, I turned where I thought it said, wound up on a desolate, rutted, dirt road with a tractor blocking the way. Peat bricks were being tossed in to it. I was on a bog road. I think I'm the only one of my friends that have been on a bog road. 

  Absence of graffiti. Refreshing how much easier on the eyes.

    Smokers abound. 

    Two language country. Irish is very difficult. 

   Amazing new idea: Butlers in the buff. Apparently for your 'hen' party. I have missed so much. 

    Popcorn box  at the movies folds over like a Chinese take away carton. 

    Saw bundles of thatch alongside the road for a new roof. 

    Sitting at the top of my favorite Victorian Garden of all time: Kykemore in Connemara. Tragic love story, went to ruin, the Benedictine nuns brought it back and is now an Abbey. What a fabulous project it was, underground heating for the 19 glass houses-peaches in Connemara! So much more. 

   Not by my own doing, I'm in Cobh, port of Cork. The departure point for millions of emigrants. My ancestors included. It's quite emotional. More people emigrating than is happening today. There is a small island in the bay, called little Alcatraz. Used the convicts as slave labor before being shipped out. Most for petty crime caused by hunger. 

   The shops here close for lunch and again at 5PM. How civilized.

   Aspirin is prescriptive only.

    Kilmuckridge: at a local hotel a group of men have been playing traditional music for free for 25 years. Hotel gives a free drink and cookies. One lady has not missed a night for the 25 years. 

    Aer Lingus plane no longer has sign for smoking/non smoking. Now it's for computers and phones. Those old ashtrays were too small anyway. 

Switzerland Jan. 2016

U--Three salad dressings, private branded by Migros. That's all. Don't think it's a salad culture. 

-I came out of the National Museum to snow. Last time I came out of a museum to snow was with Aunt Leona in Chicago when I was 14. My first trip, leading me to the life I have today.

-Grossminster church has windows made with thin slabs of agate and one with the 'vase / face' motif.

-Small population with one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world.

-Apple store paid millions to Beneton to have the spot on the Banhofplatz - most expensive shopping street in Europe-and is the highest grossing in Europe. 

-When the reformation came here, the convents were abolished and the nuns were to marry. Ouch. 

-Can wear a fur coat.

-Neck scarfs as big as a blanket.

-Cigarettes for sale in vending machines on street corner.

-Cheese, watches, fabric, wonderful exports. 

English doggy holiday Jan. 2016

    Setting: Barn cottage in Dartmoor,England. Three big dogs, three women, three different countries, three dialects of English, one kitchen. We're doing well. I took over the cooking, food was planned out and sourced by my friends. It was their holiday, after all. My cooking experiment. It's not a talent I use much any more. Cooking in a camp ground on the Silk Road or a wild camp in Africa has not kept my skills honed. I only made one tiny mistake in reading the recipes. I enjoyed the challenge and they enjoyed not having kitchen duty. 

    This country is one of confusing terminology, and faucet knobs that turn every which way. Many different styles of cream to figure out. 

    I'll take all of them, please. 

   Gotta love a country that has Pancake Day. 

Graz, Dec. 2015

    I am finally going to have goose for Christmas dinner! All those times I watched Scrooge and no goose. 

   Am in the mountains today eating real schnitzel and salad with the famous and delicious pumpkin oil dressing. It just makes me so happy to taste it again. A bit heavy to carry around. Too bad.

    The city is decorated with so many overhead street lights, plazas are full of crafts sellers and mulled wine stalls. Lots..

    My goose is not cooked.  The glass oven door exploded in the night. No goose. No pumpkin pie, I am glad, as it was proving difficult to find ingredients. 

    I am at the  senior home where my friend Trudys mother is. It is the Christmas dinner for families. I am overcome with emotion. So fortunate these folks are to have their mothers or other family. It does not seem to matter how long mothers are gone, the loss never goes away. I'm glad I have these emotions. 

      The garbage trucks rotate like a cement truck, with pictures of what can be taken. 

    City streets and plazas are lit up, each one different. Many mulled wine stands roasting chestnuts, crafts and special foods. Like ginger spiced green pumpkin seeds. Yumm. I have done a bit too much of yumm. My big feather coat is a bit snug. 

   It's a chatski culture. New Year has : pigs, horseshoes, chimney sweeps, red dotted mushrooms, clover. All little representations to give away. 

    The smoking is intense. The packs of cigarettes that had the nasty photos on them were not liked, so, they made covers for the pack to hide them. And, get contraband ones from other countries. Some Cafes have smoking rooms, full of smoke and all other eating places smoke at table.   

     The call to prayer has nothing on the church bells, there are many churches, they ring a long time and ring often. I havent figured out the timing. 

   Best of all: the green pumpkin oil. Absolutely delicious.