Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Ethiopia

First thing I learned was how to ask for the toilet. shinta bet? Works every time, and I get a giggle with the directions. Now, we are in Africa of the movies. The huts start at the border area, round with thatched roofs. Flowers are now at the roadside, no more desert now. Right at the border were the mountains. No wonder they are so separate. And, what mountains, holy cow. Imagine a long truck, geared low like the cement truck she used to be, chugging up the steep, windy roads. Oh, the roads. The Chinese are funding them, and all over the country the roads are being made. Their plan is to make a bit by a village and then make another bit by another village with off road detours in between, makes for a hard drive. As we approached Gonder, there appeared hugh apartment blocks, seemed as if they had been beamed down there from another place. My first awareness of Ethiopia was the famine. I know now that it was not necessary, there was plenty of food. Just not in the right place and the president Halle Sallassie was the highest manipulator of all. Gonder is the city of castles and palaces. Not as we know them, but all the same, they were the cats meow in their day. Had the best pizza, I know it sounds a bit sacriligeous to not have tibs, but the restaurant did not have a big selection. It was the best pizza ever, Sesame and cheese. Have to try it some day for myself. Regular food is the Tibs-lamb, tomato, onion, berberri(hot), garlic, served with indura-a fermented crepe style of bread/plate. Quite good. Ate lots of it. The store had peanut butter! The best poet of Ethiopia-Master Gebrehanna" was invited to the castle and then refused entry because he did not have on 'clean' clothes. He had come straight from the monastary for his award. Others interceded and he was taken to the banquet table where he proceeded to put the food in his clothes. His reply at the confusion was, "it is my clothes which were invited" The white cap on the priests represents the crown of thorns on Jesus, white shawl the shroud, leaning stick is pounded on the floor to represent Jesus being beaten with a stick, a rattle that goes back and forth to represent Jesus face being slapped. Very intense.
Leaving Gonder, we headed for a small town called Debark. The drivers were hopelessly lost for four hours in the mountains and very dark. Back up and try another way. Gave them my compass as the GPS was in and out. So much for modern things. There was no one in the road when we got there very late, and the next morning, it was full of people wandering around in shrouds, I kid you not. It is the way to dress and has been for a very long time, looks like a thousand Jesus' wandering around in a Cecil B. Demille movie.
Now a fun part. I was supposed to walk ie: trek up a mountain for 2 days? good thing one of the women had altitude sickness and then fainted hitting her head, I was so available to help her, flagged down a truck, her man gave some money and off we were to the top of the mountain. Thank Clod.
On to Aksum. This is the center of Christianity in Africa. Aksumite empire is from 500BC, the tallest obelish is over 2000 years old. The calender is 7 years younger than ours. There are three different styles of crosses for the churchs there. The Ark of the Covenent is said to lie here under guard, no women allowed. Humm
Lalibela: home of the rock hewn church's, wow is an understatement. I have seen the best one, St George, it is the one carved straight down into the ground in the shape of a cross, then hollowed out to make the church inside. By hand...
Bahir Dar; means by the sea. To greet another, shake hands and touch right shoulders, if it has been a longer time that one has not seen the other, hugs and kisses. if it is a priest, kiss his knee.
We got to 4330 meters at Sanetti Plateau, could hardly breathe. Just stayed still.
Plastic changed the water burden, easier to carry for the children.
Palo Alto California sponsors a music festival in Arba Minch, guess that is why E. Palo Alto is mostly black, must be from Ethiopia.
If one hits a cow with the car it is 1500 Birr, a donkey is 2000 birr.
We stopped for lunch by the side of the road, so many people appear to watch us. One place there was a cow slaughtered and our Paul got right over there and got us some meat for dinner.
Addis Ababa, best thing was the hotel and the spa. It was the home of Halle Sallissee's palace and his place of downfall.

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